Keeping the Count on One Hand – Roger

Some time ago I had a charter flight to the Okavango Delta, and experienced the intricate waterways up close again – something I had not done since the 1980’s. Watching the vast amount of water flowing in the main river channel and realizing it all flows into a huge delta and then empties into the desert where it will all evaporate is hard to imagine. It was amazing to again navigate through the maze of channels, all lined with tall reeds, to the newly constructed remote lodge we stayed at. It was a 1½ hour boat ride and we saw many crocodiles and lots of bird life, including the majestic Fish Eagle, my favorite bird in that area. On the way back it took me less than two minutes to fly over the camp - showing the true value of airplanes!
I am sometimes asked where my favorite place is, of all the places I’ve been in the world. I used to say it was Third Bridge, a place we used to camp at frequently when we lived in Maun. We spent many nights camping there, with nobody else around. There were no facilities, just a place in the bush to camp next to a wooden bridge made by fallen 6 to 8 inch trees wired together. We spent many nights there listening to the jungle sounds, and seeing all the animals on the morning and evening drives. On several occasions we had lions walk right through our campsite, but other than the baboons trying to steal our food, we were usually left alone to share the area with all the wildlife. At times we would go farther north into an area that was completely undisturbed – nobody around for miles and miles. Today however the rest of the world has also discovered the “Jewel of the Kalahari” and there are lodges scattered all through the area, and even an official campsite and ablution block at Third Bridge.
On this trip we spent one night in a “lodge” on an island and early the next day I got up to take a stroll. I walked down a trail along the water’s edge about 100 meters and heard a huge crashing in the bush. I stopped and suddenly a huge bull elephant crashed out of the bush not more than 20 meters in front of me. He stopped and looked straight at me, and I just froze on the spot. He raised his trunk in the air to try to catch my scent, but I felt a light breeze on my face and knew he wouldn’t pick up my scent. I stayed completely still since an elephant’s eyesight is very poor, although they have a good sense of smell and hearing. I slowly moved my eyes and noticed to the left and just a bit aft was a large tree that was split at the bottom. I could fit through that slit, but the elephant would not be able to should he decide to charge. I tried to judge whether I could make if he decided to “go for it”. I was closer to the tree than the elephant was to me, but he was considerably faster than me. I didn’t have time to work out formulas of speed versus distance, and because there was no other option it really didn’t matter – if he started for me I was not going to stand my ground to see if it was a mock charge – I was going to be headed for that tree in short order. I don’t know how long he stood there, time always seems longer in those situations, but it was long enough to have an extended time for the adrenaline to flow. In any case he probably decided it was not going to be worth the effort required just for the amusement of watching the little human twerp kick up some dust, and he slowly ambled off and went down to the water for a drink.
Later that day I tried to remember how many times I was quite frightened in the African bush. I am referring to times I had an extended time to have my system pumped with adrenaline – not the quick adrenaline rushes that happen quickly and then are gone – like having a black mamba slither close by with his head held high and his eye on you as he speeds through the bush. Or the times of heightened alertness like when a lion strolls near your tent, or a hippo’s eyes glow in the flashlight beam very close as they watch you cook dinner over the fire, or an elephant mock charges you when you are in a vehicle but are not stuck and can move if required, or a hyena that is prowling near your camp looking for an opportunity to steal you dinner. No I am talking of times when the scare was real enough and long enough to have one think about how great it is to be alive, and the desire to live a bit longer. I could only come up with enough to use all the fingers on my one hand. Three had to do with elephants, one with a group of hippos, and one with a lion. Two were in vehicles that were completely stuck and could not be moved (one in a hippo pool), and three were on foot. One could be classified as me being completely stupid (which I acknowledge), and I’ve been reminded of that one by Jolene on many occasions, so let’s not dwell on that! One caused permanent hearing loss in both my ears when my mother screamed, but other than none have caused any lasting damage.
It is hard to beat the trips into the African bush, and something I love to do, but I think I’ve had enough adrenaline rushes to not want to move to my second hand to continue the count.