Tribal Customs and How to Become a Man –Roger

It all started with Mokolone, a man who fuels our aircraft, telling me he would be gone for six weeks. When I asked where he was going he informed me he was going out in the bush for the tribal initiation ceremonies. There are numerous tribes in Botswana, including eight major Bantu tribes, the Barolong, Bakwena, Bangwaketse, Balete, Bakgatla, Batlokwa, Bangwato and Batawana. The last tribal initiation for any of these tribes was more than 20 years ago – they used to happen every three to five years in each of the tribes. The Paramount Chiefs have discontinued the custom, mainly because of the discouragement of tribalism and the process of tryingto build a unified democratic country, and because of the influence of the first president who was the rightful Chief to the largest Bantu tribe (The Bangwaketse), but refused to accept donning the lion skin, which would make him the Chief. He tried to limit the powers of the Chiefs and it was, and at times still is, a struggle to know where to draw the “power” line between the Chiefs (and local custom) and the official democratic government. At the start of independence (1966) there was a House of Chiefs established in the government, but it is more of an advisory body than a governing body. However the Chiefs still rule in many disputes, land allocations etc. and lead and guide the people in the villages. There is a Paramount Chief for each tribe, and the villages are divided into “wards” each with their own Headman (local Chief) – but I digress!

Mokolone and I always spar back and forth when he comes to fuel my airplane as I try to pry information from him about what happens in the initiation ceremony. It is supposed to be a big secret and each person who goes through it is not allowed to disclose what happens there. Before he left I told him I will sneak into the bush and spy on them, and he informed me if I got caught I would be forced to stay with them until they returned and then I would have to keep their secrets too. I tell him I want to be the first white man to be initiated and he tells me I am a “monna mogolo” (old man) and could not take the rigorous schedule. I glean a few “secrets” here and there in this verbal sparring, but he tries to be vague in his replies – at least it makes fueling the aircraft fun!

In years past each of these groups was called a “mophato” (regiment), and they all had a totem and held a special bond and loyalty to each other. The Chief could call on a regiment when required (some still do) to accomplish tasks for the tribe such as a building project or village improvement. In the old days they were also a type of military unit, which is one reason the British tried to stop the custom years ago.

After many years of the Chiefs not performing this “rite of passage”, the new Chief of the Bakgatla tribe decided to start it up again. It has caused much excitement among many of the people in the tribe, while others think it is outdated and meaningless. There is also an initiation for the women, but I don’t know much about that. The men follow their Chief into the bush a long way from the village and they sleep on the ground and drink some substance (I can’t get much information on what it is made of) and eat very little and only one time a day. Mokolone came back much thinner than when he left, and he is not a big man. He tells me this cleans out your insides (diarrhea for about a week), and then your mind gets very clear and you can think on a higher level. They sleep on the cold ground (this happens in winter) and walk about 50 kilometers (30 miles) a day. They only sleep for a few hours at a time and then are woken and continue their marches. The only people allowed there are those who have done the initiation before, and those who are being initiated. They are taught all the things of “being a man” which includes the tribe’s traditional customs and beliefs. There were several thousand men that went to this, and Mokolone lives for these events – he was thrilled with the new Chief for starting this up again. If a Paramount Chief from any of the Bantu tribes dies the men may not return until he has been buried. When Mokolone was initiated the first President (Sir Seretse Khama) died and they had to stay in the bush for three months – that would have been 1980. I told him Seretse was not a Chief since I know he refused to put on the lion skin (each tribe has its totem and skin they use) and he was surprised I knew that but sheepishly told me even though he did not accept the Chieftanship, he was still royalty and they consider him a Chief. It is interesting how strong some of those tribal feelings are. I don’t think American’s, who live in a country that was founded on a rebellion from the “King” can completely understand those feelings. In discussion with some British friends, they seem to understand the “royalty” appeal better than I do.

One of the rites performed is circumcision, but today they use qualified doctors, and it is done in a proper facility. When they return from the initiation there is a huge public ceremony to greet them. I was so disappointed that I was on call and could not go. Getting to know Batswana and experiencing some of their culture has always been a highlight of living in Africa. The Chief came out dressed in his leopard skin (the Bakgatla custom) and there were many speeches. Fortunately Jolene, Renae, and Katrina did get to go with a very dear friend of ours from when we lived in Maun. She has moved back to her home village of Mochudi which is where the ceremony was held, and she invited us to go with her to the celebration. I told Jolene to sneak as many pictures as possible (they are forbidden), but there were men with sticks patrolling the crowd and assuring no photos were taken during the time they were forbidden .

This is my last blog until Jolene and/or Renae write about something. They can blog on the initiation ceremony or what they want, but it’s their turn, so unless they contribute next this blog is completed. If you want more entries get on them!